Ohio, Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Snake Lovers

Waiting for Spring. Waiting for the lake ice to break. Waiting for the tulips to bloom. Waiting for the bike trails to dry. 

Monitoring the national forecast maps for weeks, I hope for a few days of dry weather somewhere in the Midwest so I can continue the Frizbo Fifty. My original plan, a loop through Missouri, Arkansas, and Oklahoma, goes from unlikely to hopeless as first tornadoes, then floods, pummel the southern states. Finally, in early May, there is a break in the relentless rainfall, with clear skies and warm weather in Ohio and Pennsylvania. After my wife generously agrees to my last-minute expedition, I pack the van for a four-day cycling trip to Pennsylvania's Allegheny National Forest.

After an early start and seven hours in the car, I’m ready to stretch my legs. The first stop, just outside Cleveland, is Cuyahoga Valley National Park. Easily accessed from I-80, I park at the Lock 29 Trailhead. As it is Mother's Day, the parking lot is full of parents trailed by their offspring, much like imprinted goslings. I unload my bike, swing onto the Ohio & Erie Towpath Trail, and head north

Ohio & Erie Towpath Trail

A flat limestone trail, interspersed with boardwalks and bridges, the Towpath Trail travels 20 miles along the Cuyahoga River. Other bike trails connect leading north to Cleveland and south as far as Akron. There is even a scenic railroad that will shuttle bikers one way. 

Years ago, the Cuyahoga River was a toxic mess. Serving as an open sewer and dump site for Cleveland's manufacturing sector, the oil-slicked river bubbled like a deadly stew and occasionally burst into flames. A local resident recounted, “The river was a scary little thing, Rats would float by their corpses so bloated they were practically the size of dogs. There was a general rule that if you fell in -- God forbid -- you would go immediately to the hospital."

After the river caught fire in 1969, it galvanized the environmental movement and helped lead to the establishment of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and passage of the Clean Water Act. In 1974, President Ford designated the surrounding area as a national recreation area, and through decades of restoration efforts, the river has been transformed into a vibrant waterway—now popular for fishing, paddling, and serving as the scenic heart of a national park.

Today, I don't see evidence of the former toxicity. All I see are scenic bluffs framing a valley filled with budding spring foliage. As I'm riding, I notice a couple of other bikers approaching in the distance. Suddenly, one of the riders appears to have some sort of fit, wildly swerving his bike and nearly crashing. As they near, I eye him cautiously in case he has another fit. As they pass, I overhear the word "snake." A few moments later, a large snake appears directly in front of my wheel, stretched across the bike path. I violently jerk my handlebars to avoid the snake and nearly crash into the undergrowth.

"Oh, well, that would explain it," I think to myself.

I-80 Bridge

Snakes are a common bike path hazard. On cooler days, and especially in the spring, bike paths are a favorite spot for snakes to warm themselves. Unfortunately, they like to stretch themselves perpendicular to the bike path and pretend to be a stick. Which means I have run over more than a few snakes. I really don't like running over snakes. Not only do I feel terrible for the innocent snake, I've found it's unlucky. Using a reptile as a speed bump often leads to wrong turns, flat tires, and sudden downpours.

When I turn around to see if a snake's OK. I usually find the snake as it was, happily sunning itself, and apparently unharmed. I’ve discussed this with snake experts, whose assessment is that riding over a snake almost certainly causes injury. But, my firsthand experience suggests otherwise. The snakes seem more troubled by my checking on their welfare than by being squashed. After a few moments of me hovering, they quickly slither off the path, seemingly none the worse for wear, and always before I can get a decent photograph.

Bridal Veil Falls

After a few more miles on the flat Towpath Trail, I get distracted and follow a bridle path up Tinkers Creek Gorge, and then to a blacktop trail maintained by the Bedford Park District. Having climbed to the top of the bluffs, I enjoy an exhilarating flight back down to the towpath and the car. 

Spring in Cuyahoga Valley National Park -- a great addition to the Frizbo Fifty and a perfect start to my road trip. 

Next stop, Pennsylvania's Allegheny National Forest.

-- Frizbo

Nice ride, easily accessible from the interstate

• State: Ohio
• Date: 2011-05-08
• Route: Cuyahoga Valley National Park, OH
• Distance: 32 miles