Saturday, August 18, 2012

Missouri, Katy Trail

I used the excuse of dropping off my daughter at U of I as an opportunity for a Missouri bike ride.  The Katy Trail, named after the Missouri, Kansas and Texas Railway, runs over 200 miles from just outside St. Louis to Machens, MO.

Following the Missouri river, the Katy Trail features B&B's, wineries, trail-side restaurants and quaint towns.  Today I rode from the tunnel just west of Rocheport to Hartsburg.


The Katy trail features numerous access points along the route.


Tunnel near Rocheport

Missouri River



This summer's drought left the corn fields brown

View from Eagle Bluffs Overlook Trail







Very bad season for corn

A stone the shape of a shark's tooth flattened my tire.
End of the day
(Add story about wood-fired pizza)


-- Frizbo


State: Missouri
Date: 2012-08-18
Route: Katy Trail
Distance: 53 miles

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

Nevada, River Mountains Loop Trail, Hoover Dam and the Grand Canyon

When my son, Matt, graduated from college, I proposed a father-son backpacking trip to the Grand Canyon which he readily accepted.  We flew into Las Vegas and on the way to the canyon we stopped for a bike ride -- and what better way to acclimate to the desert climate than a bike ride.

Boulder City, NV is just south of Las Vegas and has easy access to the River Mountains Loop Trail which runs through the hills and along Lake Mead.


Trail head

Matt surveying our route
Off the main loop, a spur trail runs to Hoover Dam along the old right-of-way the railway used to move materials to the dam during construction.

Power infrastructure for the Hoover Dam generators
Just above the Visitor's Center is a bike rack where we locked up our rental bikes and walked down to the dam.

Angel Statues

Hoover Dam intake towers

Hoover Dam spur trail tunnel

Feels pretty hot here for Midwestern boys

Grand Canyon South Rim (the "before" picture)

Our backpacking itinerary was the classic "Rim-to-Rim" route.  It started with a 5-hour shuttle from the south rim to the north rim.  From there we would descend to camp at the Cottonwood Campground.  Then down to the Bright Angel Campground/Phantom Ranch for two nights at the bottom of the canyon.  One day up to Indian Gardens and then climb out of the canyon on the last day.  

We arrived at the north rim to find the ranger station closed for the night.  I had understood that backpackers with a permit didn't need reservations for the first night at the north rim campground, but now I had no idea where to camp.  Fortunately, some fellow backpackers had sympathy for us and allowed us to share their campsite.  It turned out they were also father and son, also celebrating the son's recent graduation from a Big Ten school (Wisconsin), and also an engineering major.
Grand Canyon North Rim

North Kaibab Trail

Interestingly, the park's South Rim is supplied with water by an antiquated and leaky pipeline that runs from the North Rim down to the canyon bottom and up the other side.  The pipeline breaks often enough that backpackers are cautioned to bring a water filter.  At the Cottonwood Campground, we learned the pipeline had burst and there was no water.  I had followed the park's recommendation, but not everyone was as prepared.  We watched a rim-to-rim runner scaling the canyon wall by Roaring Springs with his water bottle to fill up with the cleanest water possible. 


Words of wisdom
Later we saw the source of the problem, a water geyser gushing 50-feet in the air from the partially buried pipeline along the river.  Apparently, turning water off at the below-the-rim campgrounds maintains enough pressure to provide water to the South Rim's six million annual visitors.  Another fun fact: the restrooms at the South Rim go through more than a mile of toilet paper each day.




That's not a suntan, it's a dust tan

Ribbon Falls, North Kaibab Trail
On day two, we were passed a group of backpackers sporting ultralight backpacks.  I don't understand why, but ultralight backpackers can't hide their sense of superiority.  "Those are mighty big backpacks you got there," one cracked as he walked by.

"You're just jealous," I retorted.  "Of my big package!" I should have added.  My response must have prickled because he sneered at me when we passed them on the trail later on.  Really, you're giving me a hard time because I packed too much?  This encounter was the genesis for an article I would later write for the Sierra Club (Hoarder, Foodie, Loose Cannon -- Which Backpacker Are You?).

Bark scorpions glow bright green under a UV light!  Really
Matt and I feasted on a steak dinner at the Phantom Ranch.

After dinner we joined the ranger in a scorpion hunt.  The ranger produced handheld black light and scanned the rock posts by the mule corral.  The scorpions hangout at the corral because their prey eats mule dug.  Sure enough, hiding in the various nooks and crannies were scorpions glowing bright green in the shine of the black light -- amazing.  

Tonto Platform, Clear Creek Trail

115 degrees!

Grand Canyon South Rim (the "after" picture)


-- Frizbo

State: Nevada
Date: 2012-05-23
Route: River Mountains Loop Trail
Distance: 20 miles


Saturday, October 22, 2011

Michigan, Kal-Haven Bike Trail

The best rides are the ones where I can talk some friends into coming along. Jay and Jan joined Mona and me for an apple picking weekend in South Haven, MI. South Haven has a number of nice biking opportunities including the Kal-Haven Trail.

Jan, Mona and a covered bridge


Noooo!


The weather was unusually nice for late October.







Jay was so wiped out by the ride he declined to come out for dinner. We were a reluctant to leave him alone as he was barely responding to our questions. Uneasy, we decided to go out for dinner and bring Jay back a carry-out pizza. As we left the rental house, Jay called to us, "Get it with pepperoni!"

"He's going to be OK," we laughed. In the end, I think he was just dehydrated. After dinner we celebrated with a fire at the beach.


Jan helping with the firewood!


Pat helping with firewood (not so much)


Michigan sunset


It was a surprisingly nice evening for Michigan in late October, but Michigan is a great place to visit anytime of year. It's blessed with luminous beaches in the summer, apple picking in the fall and skiing in the winter. Admittedly, Michigan skiing pales in comparison to ski destinations out west, but if you don't mind repeatedly skiing the same few runs, Michigan skiing can be a lot of fun.


Smile Jan!


Smile Jay!

When I started dating Mona, I learned she was a member of the Hustlers Ski Club. I had only skied a couple of time in my life, but I figured I better sign up rather stay home while my new girlfriend was spending weekends away with a group of "hustlers."

A typical club trip included a long coach bus ride to a Midwestern ski area, two days of skiing, and a long bus ride back. The party started as soon as we boarded the coach buses in the Triton Community College parking lot and continued throughout the weekend. On the bus, it was a rolling bash. Folks in the aisles, talking over the seat backs, singing "Hang on Sloopy" on the PA. We'd arrive at the hotel after midnight, tumble into bed and then wake to an early alarm because the one redeeming quality of the Hustlers, was they never let anything get in the way of skiing. Hangovers, icy slopes, negative wind chills, the Hustlers skied.

On my first trip, I found myself on rental skis, blue jeans, cotton hat and snow covered as I fell at every possible opportunity. I distinctly remember a tumble below the chairlift at Nubs Nob that elicited peals of laughter from the riders above. I did not give up. After a few seasons of skiing with the Hustlers, I had my own skis, a complete set of brightly colored outerwear, and could ski Midwestern slopes without crashing.

By this time, Mona and I were married, with a house in the suburbs, and we were considering getting pregnant. We recognized our days as Hustlers would soon be over. 

Each year the Hustlers organized one week-long trip out West or to Europe. This year, the big trip was to Kitzbühel, Austria. Mona and I signed up with the romantic notion that we would conceive in Europe. But as many parents learn, such plans can go astray, and by the time the trip rolled around, Mona was three months pregnant.

We were joined by fellow Hustlers, Anna and Mark. Anna was Mona's BFF from first grade and Mark was Anna's boyfriend. Mark and Anna started dating on a Hustlers trip after some confusion about hotel room keys. Despite Mona's condition, we were determined to have a good time.

At the airport, the club issued us neon pink hats, each embroidered with "Hustlers" so club members could easily find each other while on the slopes. The hats were quite distinctive as we stood to board our flight at O'Hare airport. After takeoff, as soon as the seatbelt signs went off, we behaved as did on the coach bus, drinking, leaning over seats, milling in the aisles, having a party. The Sabena flight crew didn't seem to mind as the Hustlers had booked every seat. By the time we arrived in Europe, we had consumed every drop of alcohol on the plane.

Waiting for the Glockenspiel

At our next stop, in Munich, we were led to the Marienplatz to witness the Glockenspiel at 5pm on a bitterly cold evening. So there we stood, fifty Americans wearing neon pink hats staring up at the clock tower waiting for the show to start. The Germans walking home from work must have been amused by the Americans with their necks craned back on a bitterly cold evening because the Germans knew the Glockenspiel only runs in the summer. The worst part, we waited at least 20 minutes. I mean come on, if the clock doesn't go off at 5, it's not suddenly going to spring to life at a quarter after.

Mark, Anna and Mona


A bus ride later, we were welcomed to Kitzbühel by Hermann, our hotel proprietor. We promptly took over the place. Kitzbühel is renown for miles of skiable terrain, but it depends on natural snowfall which was sorely lacking that year. The lower slopes were ice sheets and almost unskiable, so we spent most of our time above the tree line at Pass Thurn. After five days in Kitzbühel, the Hustlers and their pink hats must have made an impression as on the last evening, a bar tender made an impassioned plea for my hat, offering me all sorts of bar tchotchkes in exchange. I refused -- something I regret as I never wore that ugly pink hat again.

Munich Olympiapark

After Kitzbühel, the four of us continued on to Vienna while most of the Hustlers returned home. On the return flight, the club was joined by travelers connecting from Africa. Imagine, after a long red-eye flight, boarding a plane full of loud Americans all wearing pink hats. And as soon as the seat belt sign went off, the pink-hatted Americans commenced to have a big party in the aisles. The Hustlers again made an impression, as the Sabina ground crew in Chicago were still talking about it months later. 

Route: South Haven to Bloomingdale, MI

Ride Summary

  • State: Michigan
  • Date: 2011-10-22
  • Route: Kal-Haven Trail
  • Distance: 36 miles


Sunday, June 12, 2011

Wisconsin, Badger State Trail

Southern Wisconsin is blessed with a network of rails-to-trails bike trails, but some allow ATVs which I consider a fatal flaw.  The Badger Trail, thankfully, does not allow ATVs and conveniently starts where the Illinois' Jane Addams trail ends at the state line.  

Today's ride starts in Freeport, IL with a turnaround at the tunnel near Monticello, WI.



Northern Illinois farmland

Illinois-Wisconsin Border
Southern Wisconsin farmland
Careful observers will readily notice the difference between southern Wisconsin and northern Illinois farmland (just kidding).  


But as I approach Monticello, the landscape becomes hilly and for the trains necessitated a tunnel.  The Stewart Tunnel is a 1/4 mile long and because of a slight bend is completely dark.

Stewart Tunnel
A pigeon in the tunnel that will be seeing camera flash for a week.

A cutie!

Duck face for a cow!
Same trail, different day
Gary and Mona taking a break

Don't stop there. The Badger Trail continues north and the Pecatonica Trail is just a
few miles from the south terminus of the Jane Addams trail.

-- Frizbo

States: Wisconsin, Illinois
Date: 2011-06-12
Route: Badger Trail (47 miles) and Jane Addams (25 miles)
Distance: 72 miles