After a day biking in Ohio, I arrive in Pennsylvania's Allegheny National Forest (
Why a Frizbo Fifty?). My first stop is the Marienville Ranger Station.
"I'm interested in some mountain biking!" I respond when queried by the ranger. The forest district, while not known for mountain biking, does have extensive trails for All Terrain Vehicles (ATV). These trails are closed to ATVs before Memorial Day, so it seems like a good opportunity to do some mountain biking without the threat of being roadkill.
Based on the ranger's cold stare, I get the feeling this ranger doesn't like me or mountain bikers in general. Reluctantly he points out the nearby ATV trails and parking lots. I try to warm him up. I gesture to the stuffed bear on display. "So, are there a lot bears around here?"
"Oh, yea, lots of bears. Worried?"
"No, black bears don't scare me," I answer. I have encountered enough black bears to know that they will quickly run away with just a little encouragement. "Grizzly bears scare me, but not black bears." I offer, trying not to sound like an urban dweeb worried about bears, snakes and poison ivy.
"Well, let me tell you about black bears," he retorts. "If a grizzly bear attacks you, you can play dead. But if a black bear attacks you, you'd better fight back, cause he plans on eating you."
"Really! And exactly how many people have been killed by man-eating black bears in the Allegheny National Forest?" I am tempted to reply, but I instead I simply thank him and head to the trail head.
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| From the "Pigs Ear Trailhead" there are 28 miles of ATV trails. |
To the west is the Marienville Trail, rated "more difficult" and to the east, the Timberline Trail rated "easiest." I start west to find out the meaning of "more difficult." After a mile of smooth packed gravel trail, I come to a steep climb paved in concrete blocks and covered with pea gravel. It's like riding on loose marbles -- a mountain biker's nightmare. I guess I have to stick to the easier trails (I later noticed this was a downhill only segment of the trail and there was an uphill bypass).
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| Marienville ATV Trail, "More Difficult" |
Backtracking and heading east, I find myself riding primarily forest service roads. Soon I discover the forest is a maze of access roads for oil and gas wells. Poor signage combined with poor maps and I quickly have lost my way. But with all the service roads, I simply pick a road and head north and west until I pick up the trail again.
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| Oil/gas field access roads |
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| Oil and gas wells every 200 yards! |
National forests, unlike national parks, are a resource to be harvested, but this place is disgusting with the sound and smell of wells permeating the forest. I feel like I'm riding in an industrial park. By the time I return to the car, I am pretty disappointed. There has to be some better trails than this.
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| Kinzua Dam |
I drive north to the Allegheny Reservoir and with the sun setting I take a quick hike out to the tops of the bluffs overlooking the reservoir. The northern part of the forest district is much prettier with far fewer roads and wells. On the way back to Warren, the nearest town, a small black bear bolts across the road right in front of my car.
"So, they do have bears here. I wonder if it's a man-eater!"
As I mentioned, I have had some run-ins with black bears. Once in the Porcupine Mountains, I greeted a bear on a pitch-black night by saying "Hey Ron, is that you?", but the most interesting encounter occurred in the Shenandoah National Park. It was a family vacation with my wife, two kids and the dog and we had just finished a canoe trip on the Shenandoah River. We were now headed to the next phase of the trip, a rustic cabin in the national park. Driving through this part of Virginia, we noticed just about everything is named Shenandoah: Shenandoah National Park, Shenandoah River, Shenandoah Drive, Shenandoah View Apartments, Shenandoah Cleaners. Feeling a little punchy after day five of the family vacation, my wife began singing John Denver's "Country Roads" every time one of us said the word "Shenandoah."
Almost heaven, West Virginia
Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah River
Life is old there, older than the trees
Younger than the mountains, blowing like a breeze
While it was funny the first six times, we were circumspect by the time we got to the trailhead in the S-word National Park (our working euphemism to prevent further outbursts of Country Roads).
The rustic cabins, managed by the
Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, were built by the CCC when the park was developed. These primitive cabins are equipped with mattresses, blankets, and cookware. A pit toilet and spring water are nearby. The cabins can only be reached by hiking well into the park and offer an excellent base camp to explore the surrounding trails and forest.
By this time it is late in the day and we are hustling to get to the cabin before dusk. On the spur trail to the cabin, as we are arm-carrying sleeping bags, camping gear and food, we come upon a black bear munching on blue berries.
"Oh, My God! It's a bear!"
"Don't run. Stand together. Look big, he'll run away."
By this time the bear notices us, gives us a long look, and then goes back to eating blue berries.
"He's not leaving!"
"Make some noise. That will scare him."
We make some rather half-hearted yells and shouts which the bear totally ignores.
"He's still not leaving! What should we do?"
"Hmmm, I know, let's sing the song."
"Almost heaven, West Virginia..."
I don't know if it was our singing or maybe bears just don't care for John Denver, but before we finished the first verse, that bear had skedaddled into the woods. Like I said, they just need some encouragement.
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| Allegheny Mountains |
That evening back at the hotel in Warren, PA, I search the web looking for non-ATV bike trails. I find a recommendation from the local bike club website, text my wife that I survived today's adventures and hit the hay.
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| At last, some single track! |
Today, I ride the Tanbark Trail -- a hiking trail that runs from the plateau down to the Allegheny River. This is still early spring in the Allegheny Forest. Only two weeks ago they had eight inches of snow here. Despite a trail covered in autumn's leaves and winter's branches, the ride is exhilarating as I glide through the trees benefiting from a gentile downhill slope.
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| Spring arrives late in the Allegheny Mountains |
Soon the Tanbark Trail becomes steep and rocky. I dismount and walk the remaining mile or so to the river.
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| "The only extreme thing about my mountain biking is I am extremely careful" -- Frizbo |
At the river, I know there is no way I can ride back up the Tanbark Trail. Instead I follow the river road looking for a gravel road going up and east. After some wandering around and a hellacious climb, I discover a fantastic forest road, FS-119, that winds along the Hickory Creek Wilderness Area and right back to the car. Here the Allegheny Forest is preserved for outdoor recreation and is undeniably beautiful.
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| 300+ year old White Pine, Hearts Content National Scenic Area |
-- Frizbo
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| Lost among the oil wells and ATV Trails |
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| Tanbark Trail Single Track |
- State: Pennsylvania
- Date: 2011-05-09 & 2011-05-10
- Route: Allegheny National Forest (Timberline and Tanbark Trails)
- Distance: 56 miles
